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Outage cost from your own hours, not a national figure

There is no honest national cost of a power outage, and this site will not ship one. Type hours, a dollar-per-hour that means something to you, food you would actually throw away, and work you would actually lose. The total is not a generator size.

Your figures not a national outage average Hours × a $/hour you type, plus food and work-from-home lumps you type. A generator conversation starts with watts on the sizing tool, not with this dollar.

Enter hours without power, a dollar rate per hour that is yours, food you would lose, and work-from-home income you would lose. Twelve hours at $25/hour plus $80 of food is $380 on this form.

That number can tell you whether backup is worth talking about. It cannot size a generator, and it is not an insurance claim. Size watts on the generator sizing tool. HyreElectrical does not sell generators.

Hours, a rate, two lumps

No national outage cost is shipped. Your figures. Nothing is emailed.

A typical outage you actually get, or the last one, not a hypothetical week unless that is your pattern.

Lost paid work, a hotel, sitting elsewhere. $0 if the hour itself is not the loss.

Replacement cost of what would spoil in those hours. $0 is common on a short outage.

A lost shift, a canceled clinic day, a hotel. Not a generator price.

— Total (your figures)
— Hours × your rate
— Food and other lumps

What this assumed —

Hours × a $/hour you type, plus lumps. Not an insurance claim. Not a generator size. HyreElectrical does not sell generators. Live work is not DIY.

Outages are not getting longer every week. They are getting longer in the tail

The tail, not the average, is the finding that changes the decision, and the headline number everybody quotes conceals it completely.

Where the 11 hours of 2024 interruption came from18.2%Routine interruptions, typical year — 2 hours81.8%Major-event interruptions, 2024 — 9 hoursUS Energy Information Administration, Hurricanes in 2024 led to the most hours without power in the United States in 10 years (Today inEnergy), 1 December 2025. The routine figure is EIA’s description of a typical year rather than a measured 2024 value.
Real EIA figures. Almost the entire increase sits in the major-event segment, and that segment is a storm, not a Tuesday.US Energy Information Administration, Hurricanes in 2024 led to the most hours without power in the United States in 10 years (Today in Energy), 1 December 2025.

The headline first. EIA: “U.S. electricity customers experienced an average of 11 hours of electricity interruptions in 2024” — nearly twice as many as the annual average experienced in the decade before. Read alone, that sounds like general decay of the grid.

Then the composition. “Interruptions attributed to major events averaged nearly nine hours in 2024, compared with an average of nearly four hours per year in 2014 through 2023. Service interruptions that aren’t triggered by major events routinely average about two hours per year.”

About two hours of the eleven is the ordinary year. Nearly nine is storms.

Why that distinction decides everything here. Two hours a year, spread over a handful of brief interruptions, costs a household almost nothing: the fridge stays cold, the evening is inconvenient, nothing spoils.

Nine hours arriving as one continuous event in the middle of a hurricane is a completely different experience — and it may not arrive at all in a given year, then arrive as three days.

So an average is precisely the wrong summary statistic. Backup power is bought against the tail, not the mean. A household whose supply is underground in a mild climate and one at the end of an overhead rural feeder can share a national average and have nothing else in common.

Which is why this tool asks you to type the hours. Your own history — how many events, how long, and how recently — is the only input that describes your risk.

Many utilities publish their own reliability statistics, and your own memory of the last five years is a better guide than any national figure.

And why we publish no dollar figure. There is no national figure for what an outage costs a household. The EIA duration data is real; the dollar value of your own lost food, lost work and hotel night is yours to type.

The numbers this page is built on

11 hoursaverage interruption per US customer, 2024US Energy Information Administration
2 hoursof that which is routine, non-major-event interruption in a typical yearUS Energy Information Administration
4 hourshow long an unopened refrigerator is reported to hold food safely — see the caveat belowUS Department of Agriculture, Food Safety and Inspection Service (not retrieved this session)
18.34¢/kWhUS average residential electricity price, June 2026 — the rate you are not paying while the power is offUS Energy Information Administration

The food-safety figures could not be retrieved: both the FSIS page and foodsafety.gov returned HTTP 403 to automated retrieval on 5 September 2026, so these figures are recorded as consistently reported USDA guidance rather than as text we read this session. Confirm them against the live page before relying on them.

What an outage actually costs, line by line

The point of the third column is that most of these are not linear in the length of the outage. Several are step functions, and the steps are where the real money is.

LineHow to work it outHow it behaves with durationWhat people forget
Spoiled refrigerated foodWhat is actually in the fridge, at what it would cost to replace it.A step, not a slope. Nothing is lost for the first few hours and then a great deal is lost at once. The reported threshold is around 4 hours unopened.Opening the door resets the clock downward. The single most effective thing you can do costs nothing and is simply to leave it shut.
Spoiled frozen foodThe contents of the freezer, which is usually worth several times the fridge.A much later and much larger step — reported at roughly 48 hours for a full freezer and about 24 for a half-full one.A full freezer holds far longer than a half-empty one, because the frozen mass is its own thermal store. Filling the gaps with water bottles before a forecast storm is free.
Lost workYour own hourly value, times the hours you genuinely could not work.Roughly linear, but only during working hours, and only if you cannot work elsewhere.A laptop and a phone hotspot cover a surprising amount of it. The real loss is usually the meeting you could not take, not the whole day.
Somewhere else to sleepA hotel night, or the cost of getting to family.A hard step at the point the house becomes uninhabitable — usually temperature, sometimes water.This is frequently the largest single line and the one nobody includes when estimating in advance.
Water, where the pump is electricBottled water, and the value of not having sanitation.Immediate. There is no grace period at all.Households on a well lose water in the same second they lose power. Filling the bath before a forecast storm covers flushing for a day.
Freeze damage to plumbingNot a line most people can estimate, because it is a restoration job rather than a purchase.A cliff, in cold weather, once the building drops below freezing.This single risk dwarfs every other line combined, and it is why backing up a gas furnace’s fan and controls — a tiny load — is such good value in a cold climate.
Medical equipmentNot a financial line at all.Immediate and non-negotiable.Needs a plan that does not depend on anything starting: batteries, and asking your utility about a medical registry, which many operate.
Electricity you did not useHours off, times your rate. At the US average of 18.34¢/kWh it is small.Linear, and negative — it is a saving.Worth noting only because it is the one line that goes the other way, and it is trivially small compared with everything above it.

Our own framing of the lines. Every figure in this table is one you supply about your own household. HyreElectrical holds no dataset of bids, invoices, inspections or jobs. No figure on this site is our own measurement of the market.

The food question, with an honest note about the source

Food safety is the most-asked question in an outage and the one we most want to get right, so here is exactly what we know and how well we know it.

What is consistently reported. An unopened refrigerator is consistently reported to hold food safely for about 4 hours, a full freezer for about 48 hours and a half-full freezer for about 24 hours, with 40°F as the threshold above which perishable food held for more than 2 hours should be discarded.

What we could not do. both the FSIS page and foodsafety.gov returned HTTP 403 to automated retrieval on 5 September 2026, so these figures are recorded as consistently reported USDA guidance rather than as text we read this session.

Confirm them against the live page before relying on them. We are telling you that rather than presenting a clean citation we do not have, because on a question with a health consequence the difference between "we read this today" and "this is widely reported" matters.

The mechanism behind the numbers. A refrigerator is an insulated box with very little thermal mass in it, so it warms relatively quickly.

A freezer is an insulated box containing a large mass of ice, and ice absorbs a great deal of heat while melting without changing temperature.

That is why the freezer figure is an order of magnitude longer, and why a full freezer outlasts an empty one.

Which produces two free actions. Keep both doors shut — every opening exchanges the cold air for room air. And before a forecast storm, fill the empty space in the freezer with containers of water, which converts unused volume into thermal mass at no cost.

And one rule that does not depend on any of the figures. Do not judge food by taste or smell. The pathogens that matter do not reliably announce themselves, and the amount of money at stake in a fridge is not worth the risk. If it was above temperature for a long time, it goes.

A note on insurance. Some homeowner policies cover food spoilage from a power interruption, sometimes with a small sublimit and sometimes only where the outage originates on your property. It is worth ten minutes with your own policy before you throw everything away, and photographs cost nothing.

Whether backup power pays for itself, and why the question is usually mis-framed

Households ask for a payback period. Payback is the wrong frame for this purchase, and being clear about why makes the decision easier rather than harder.

Relative severity of outage outcomes — illustrative0A short interruption, food kept, evening lost5A long outage with a freezer emptied30Days off work with no alternative arrangement45Nights elsewhere in a cold snap60A freeze event reaching the plumbing100Illustrative. The bars convey relative severity to show the shape of the risk and arenot measured costs from any dataset.
Illustrative, said here rather than in a footnote. The ordering is the argument; the lengths are drawn to convey shape and are not measured.Our own ordering of outcomes. No figure in it is measured.

Backup power is insurance, not an investment. Nobody asks what the payback period on their house insurance is, because the purchase is understood as buying out a tail risk rather than earning a return.

Standby power is the same shape of purchase, and framing it as an investment produces answers that look bad for the wrong reason.

The arithmetic against it, stated fairly. If routine interruption is about 2 hours a year, and your household loses very little in a two-hour outage, then the expected annual saving from a standby installation is close to nothing and the payback period is effectively infinite.

That is a real and honest result, and for many households it is the correct one.

The arithmetic for it, also stated fairly. If your answer to "how many hours were you off last year" is measured in days rather than hours, the tail is doing the deciding and the average is irrelevant.

The same holds if you are on a well, have medical equipment, work from home without an alternative, or live where a cold snap could freeze your plumbing.

And the cheaper options between nothing and everything. A portable set with cords to a refrigerator and a furnace fan covers much of the value at a fraction of the cost and with no installation.

A battery for a router and a phone covers the information problem for almost nothing. Not every answer to this question is a standby installation.

Whatever you buy, the exhaust rule does not move. CPSC: “Operate generators outdoors only, at least 20 feet from homes and buildings, with exhaust directed away from windows, doors and vents.”

And: “Never use a portable generator inside homes, garages, basements, crawlspaces, sheds or other enclosed areas, even if doors or windows are open.” The most expensive outcome in this entire subject is not spoiled food.

What to do before the next one, in order of value

Almost everything here is free, and the free items are worth more than most of the purchased ones.

  • Find out how many hours you were actually off last year

    From your own memory or from your utility’s published reliability figures. This is the input that decides everything else, and the national average is not a substitute for it.

  • Fill the empty space in your freezer

    Containers of water. Free thermal mass, and it materially extends the hold time that the reported figures describe for a full freezer versus a half-full one.

  • Decide in advance what you will not open

    Agree the fridge stays shut. Most of the food loss in short outages is self-inflicted by checking.

  • Fill the bath if a storm is forecast and your water is pumped

    A household on a well loses water at the same instant it loses power. A bath of water is a day of flushing.

  • Test the carbon monoxide alarms

    Before you need them and before anybody thinks about a generator. This is the highest-value item on the list by a wide margin.

  • Keep enough charge and light not to need anything else for a night

    A charged battery pack, torches with fresh cells, and a way to run the router if the service stays up. Very cheap, and it removes the panic that leads to bad decisions about generators.

  • If anyone depends on powered medical equipment, plan for it separately

    Batteries, a destination, and a call to your utility about a medical registry. This must not depend on a machine starting.

  • Buying a generator during the storm warning

    The worst moment to make this decision: no time to think about placement, no installation possible, and every incentive to improvise the connection. If you are going to do it, do it in a quiet month.

What this tool cannot do

The calculator has no national outage cost figure. There is no national figure for what an outage costs a household. The EIA duration data is real; the dollar value of your own lost food, lost work and hotel night is yours to type. Every dollar in the result is one you typed.

It cannot predict your outages. The EIA figures on this page are national averages for a past year. They describe the country, not your feeder, and the whole argument above is that the average is the wrong statistic for this decision.

It does not price a generator or an installation. There is no national average price for a panel upgrade, a service change, an EVSE circuit or a rewire on this site, because we hold no dataset of bids and the figures that circulate in roundups come from lead-generation sites with unpublished methods.

It does not model the freeze risk, which is plausibly the largest financial exposure in the table and is the least estimable. It depends on your building, your plumbing routes and the weather.

The food-safety figures were not retrieved this session. both the FSIS page and foodsafety.gov returned HTTP 403 to automated retrieval on 5 September 2026, so these figures are recorded as consistently reported USDA guidance rather than as text we read this session. Confirm them against the live page before relying on them.

And it does not connect anything to anything. HyreElectrical does not perform, supervise or warrant electrical work, does not open panels, and does not pull permits. Live electrical work is not a do-it-yourself subject here. Nothing on this site instructs a reader to open, probe or modify energized equipment.

How this calculator works

The calculator multiplies hours by the hourly figure you type, then adds the two lumps:

total = (hours × $/hour) + food + work-from-home (or other lump)

Twelve hours at $25/hour is $300 of time. Add $80 of food and $0 of other lump and the total is $380.

Leave hours, food and the other lump at 0 and the engine asks you to enter hours or a loss line rather than filling a national average.

There is no regional multiplier and no "typical American outage costs $X" sentence hiding in the code.

The generator conversation, if this number is large enough to care about, starts with running watts and a starting adder on the sizing tool. Transfer-switch dollars, if you get that far, are typed on the project cost tool from a bid. This page is only the household loss you are willing to name.

What each input means

Inputs on this tool, in the order they appear on the form.
InputWhat it is actually asking
Hours Duration without power that you are actually pricing. A two-hour flicker and a two-day ice storm are different rows. Run the tool twice if you want both.
Rate $/hour A dollar that means something to you for being without power for an hour. Lost paid work is the cleanest. $0 is valid when the loss is the lumps, not the clock.
Food Replacement cost of food that would actually spoil in those hours. Short outages with the fridge door shut are often $0. Do not type a week of groceries for a four-hour blip.
Work-from-home / other A lump that is not hourly and is not food: a lost shift, a hotel night, a canceled appointment. Not the price of a generator. Not a basement-flood restoration estimate unless you really want that lump in this total, labeled honestly to yourself.

Worked examples

Including one where the naive answer misleads, which is the example most calculators leave out.

A 12-hour outage with a real hourly figure

Hours 12, rate $25, food $80, other $0. Time line $300. Lumps $80. Total $380. That is a planning number for "does backup even belong on the list," not a bid. If the last three outages were 40 minutes, run it again at 0.7 hours and see whether the dollar still justifies a conversation.

A two-day outage, food is the line that moves

Hours 48, rate $0 (nobody is losing paid hours), food $220 of freezer contents, other $180 for a hotel night because the house went below 50°F. Total $400. The hourly box did nothing. The lumps did.

Leaving food at $0 because "we always eat out anyway" is fine if that is true. Inventing $800 of steak because a viral post said so is not.

The one where this dollar misleads a generator purchase

Someone types 24 hours, $100/hour, $500 food, $1,000 "peace of mind," reads $3,900, and buys a 3,500 W portable set because the carton is "about four grand cheaper than the loss." Two problems. The $1,000 peace-of-mind lump was invented.

And 3,500 W may not start the well pump or the furnace, which you only find on the sizing tool. The naive answer treats this dollar as a kilowatt class. It is not. Size watts first.

Place the set outdoors, 20 feet from the house. Never in the garage. A transfer switch is licensed work. This page will not connect the set to the panel.

What changes the result

Hours and rate move the time line linearly. Doubling hours doubles that line and does not double food unless you say it does. Food is a lump, on purpose, because spoilage is not a smooth function of hours. Four hours is often $0. Thirty-six hours in summer often is not.

The other lump is the easy place to hide a generator price or a made-up "hassle" fee. If you put the carton in that box, the total becomes circular: the equipment "saves" a number that already includes the equipment. Keep equipment off this form.

Running the tool on the outage you actually get, not the worst outage in the decade in that county, is what keeps the dollar honest. A once-in-ten-years ice storm can still be worth planning for. It should not be the default row unless that is your grid.

Local considerations

Outage length and frequency are local, and we do not ship a SAIDI table by utility.

Your last three outages, or your utility posted reliability numbers if they publish them, are the local data.

A coastal county and a dense downtown feeder are not interchangeable, and a dropdown that pretended they were would be a fake localiser.

If the next step is a generator, carbon monoxide rules from CPSC and CDC apply everywhere in the United States: outdoors, more than 20 feet from openings, never in a garage even with the door up. Transfer equipment is still a local permit and a licensed job.

When not to use this

Do not use this as an insurance claim, a generator size, or a national statistic. It cannot see a sump-pump failure, a medical device, or a utility that is out for a week.

Do not use it to justify running a portable generator in a garage because the dollar is large and the rain is heavy. Carbon monoxide is the reason, not fussiness. Get to fresh air and call emergency services if anyone has headache, dizziness, nausea or confusion around a running set.

Do not put the generator purchase price in the lump box and call the total a savings. Watts first, bid second, this dollar third.

HyreElectrical does not sell generators and does not perform electrical work. Matching is still being built. The inquiry form is not a storm line.

Related on this site

Questions this calculator answers

How much does a power outage cost a homeowner?
Whatever you would actually lose in those hours: spoiled food, lost paid work, a hotel, a failed sump pump, a medical device. There is no national figure, because a rural well and a city apartment are not the same outage. Type your own lines, and leave any you cannot name at $0.
What should I put as the hourly rate?
A number that means something to you: lost billable work, the cost of sitting in a cafe, a hotel room divided by hours, or $0 if the hour itself is not the loss and the lumps are. Do not paste a GDP-per-hour statistic. This is not a regional economic model.
How do I estimate food loss?
From what in the fridge and freezer would actually spoil in the hours you typed, at replacement cost. A four-hour outage with the doors kept shut often costs nothing in food; a 36-hour outage in July does. Type what you would throw away.
Does this include a sump pump or a well?
Only if you put the consequence on a line. A flooded basement is not an hourly rate. It is a lump, and it belongs in food or, more honestly, in the work-from-home / other box with a note to yourself that it is water damage. This tool will not price a foundation.
Can I use this number to pick a generator?
No. A $2,000 outage does not size a 2,000 W generator, and a $15,000 outage does not size a 15 kW standby set. Watts of the loads that must stay up size the set. Dollars decide whether you want to have the conversation. Start with generator sizing.
Is this an insurance claim worksheet?
No. Policies, deductibles, and what counts as a covered loss are your policy. This is household arithmetic you typed. Do not file it.
What about medical equipment?
If someone in the house depends on powered equipment, this dollar is the wrong tool. That is a backup and emergency-plan conversation with a clinician and a licensed electrician, not a food-loss line. This page will not price a life-safety load.
Should I include the generator purchase price here?
No. This is the cost of being without power, on your figures. Equipment and transfer-switch dollars belong on the project cost tool, typed from a bid, and the watts belong on the sizing tool. Mixing the three is how a carton looks "justified" before anyone knows whether it can start the well pump.
Why is the default $0?
Because a made-up national outage cost would be the most tempting fake number on this site. Empty lines stay $0. Add hours or a lump and the total appears. That is the honest empty state.
Should I price one long outage or several short ones?
Both, as separate runs. A two-hour blip twice a year and a 48-hour ice storm once a decade justify different backup: a battery for the router versus a generator that can start the well. Run the tool twice rather than adding them into one long outage.
Does HyreElectrical sell backup equipment?
No. HyreElectrical does not sell generators, install transfer switches, or dispatch anyone in a storm. Matching is still being built. The inquiry form is not an emergency line.

Sources and methodology

Figures dated 26 August 2026. Last reviewed .

  • Carbon monoxide information center (portable generators) (U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, retrieved 2026-08-26. Cited because the next step after "this dollar is large" is often a portable generator, and placement kills people. Never run one in a home or garage. Keep it at least 20 feet from the house.)
  • Carbon monoxide poisoning basics (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, retrieved 2026-08-26. CO is colorless and odorless. CDC repeats the outdoor, more-than-20-feet rule. A dollar on this page is not permission to run a set indoors because of weather.)
  • NFPA 70, National Electrical Code (National Fire Protection Association, retrieved 2026-08-26. Cited as the model code for transfer equipment if the next step is connecting a set to the house. This page does not size that connection.)

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